The "ferrata dei Finanzieri" way

The Ferrata dei Finanzieri climbs the NW Face of the Colac. The ferrata leads up to its summit and one of the most spectacular views onto the Marmolada and the Sella massif. Technically speaking the section at half-height up steep, stepped terrain is the most demanding both physically and mentally and should pose no particular problems as the ferrata is well-equipped throughout.

GETTING THERE

From Canazei in Val di Fassa drive to Alba and the cable car Funivia del Ciampac. Take this to the top at 2170m.

ACCESS

The ferrata begins immediately with an equipped section that leads to a path which continues leftwards to the base of a large sloping ramp directly beneath a steep vertical face. Climb up the ramp, keeping close to the wall: the ramp poses no particular difficulties but is covered in rubble and scree. After a short descent climb up a steeper section that leads to the ferrata’s crux. Ascend this difficult, vertical face via a series of stepped terrain (well-equipped). The face soon levels out and the ferrata continues more easily over less demanding terrain. A steep section leads to the final gully and then, leftwards, to the finishing crest. Follow this directly to the summit.

ROUTE

The ferrata begins immediately with an equipped section that leads to a path which continues leftwards to the base of a large sloping ramp directly beneath a steep vertical face. Climb up the ramp, keeping close to the wall: the ramp poses no particular difficulties but is covered in rubble and scree. After a short descent climb up a steeper section that leads to the ferrata’s crux. Ascend this difficult, vertical face via a series of stepped terrain (well-equipped). The face soon levels out and the ferrata continues more easily over less demanding terrain. A steep section leads to the final gully and then, leftwards, to the finishing crest. Follow this directly to the summit.

DESCENT

From the summit scramble down the SE face past sections equipped with cables. The route now leads pleasantly onto the Ciampac face before descending steeply (cables) onto the Contrin face. Traverse beneath beautiful yellow/grey limestone towers and descend a gully on its right to the metal cables. A nice path now traverses at altitude before rising up to Forcia Neigra at 2509m and then descending quickly SW to Ciampac.

EQUIPMENT

Normal climbing path-sets

DIFFICULTY

Mid-grade, well-equipped itinerary up not particularly steep terrain. The crux is a stepped vertical 40m face at about half-height that requires care and attention as, just like the descent, it is exposed to falling rocks.